Reykjavík: Landmannalaugar Hike and the Valley of Tears

Iceland saves its strangest scenery for the Highlands. This 11-hour trip from Reykjavík takes you by four-wheel-drive minibus to Landmannalaugar, where striped rhyolite mountains rise beside black obsidian lava, then adds a warm natural pool and the remarkable Valley of Tears. I especially like the two-hour hike and the chance to choose your own pace afterward. The main drawback is the long, bumpy ride, which can feel tiring if rough roads upset your stomach.

I also like the mix of major sights and quiet pauses: Hjálparfoss gives you a graceful waterfall, while Sigöldugljúfur brings clear streams and many small falls. Guides such as Eddi, Tomasz, Sarah, Eddie, and Einar have earned praise for safe driving, geology, local stories, and good humor. Still, the quality of commentary can vary, and a few people found the bus engine noise made it hard to hear.

Key points to know before you go

• Landmannalaugar is the main event: You get more than three hours here, including about two hours for a guided hike and time for the hot pool.
• The road is part of the adventure: The Highland route uses rough gravel and F-roads, so expect jolts, wind, and a serious four-wheel-drive journey.
• The colors are geological, not painted: Iron, sulphur, quartz, and silica give the rhyolite mountains their red, yellow, green, and brown tones.
• The Valley of Tears adds a rare bonus: Sigöldugljúfur has spring-fed streams, ponds, clear waterfalls, colorful plant life, and unusual cliffs.
• Bring lunch and proper clothing: Food is not included, and Icelandic weather can change quickly during the hike.
• The hot pool is optional: You can bathe after walking, take another trail, or simply rest near the huts.

Why Landmannalaugar deserves a full day

Landmannalaugar is not a quick roadside viewpoint. It is one of Iceland’s great Highland areas, tucked inside the Fjallabak Nature Reserve and shaped by long-ago volcanic eruptions, lava flows, geothermal heat, and severe weather.

You go there for the contrast. One moment you are crossing a broad, empty volcanic plain. The next, a mountain appears in red, mustard, charcoal, and muted green. Black lava fields cut across the scene like broken glass. Steam may rise from small hot springs near Brennisteinsalda, the mountain known as the Sulphur Wave.

The tour costs $210 per person. That is a serious day-trip price, but the value makes sense if you do not have a four-wheel-drive vehicle and want to reach a remote area without arranging transport, navigation, or road access yourself. The trip includes pickup and drop-off in Reykjavík, a local guide, the Highland drive, a guided walk, photo stops, and the chance to use the natural pool.

You are paying as much for access and driving skill as for the stops. Reaching Landmannalaugar means handling rough roads and changing conditions. Several people praised drivers who managed strong winds, a flat tire, and difficult road sections safely. You should still see this as a demanding day, not a gentle sightseeing loop.

The early Reykjavík pickup and the Highland road

Pickup is arranged from selected hotels and bus stops around Reykjavík. You are asked to be ready at 7:30 AM, although the minibus can take up to 30 minutes to arrive depending on your pickup point. Keep your phone switched on and connected to mobile data, because the operator needs to find you if the vehicle is delayed or the pickup point is difficult to identify.

The ride takes roughly two hours in each direction, though the full experience lasts about 11 hours. The vehicle is described as a comfortable Super Jeep or four-wheel-drive minibus, with Wi-Fi and USB ports. Those are useful touches on a long day, especially if you are using your phone for photos or navigation.

Do not expect a smooth coach ride once you leave the main roads. The Highland tracks are gravelly and uneven, and the bumps can continue for a good stretch. One person advised avoiding the very back of the bus, where the ride can feel cramped and rougher. Another suggested bringing motion-sickness medicine if you are sensitive to jolting roads.

That rough drive is not a flaw in the destination. It is the price of reaching scenery that ordinary buses and rental cars cannot access. You will pass wide volcanic country and may see the effects of activity around Hekla. Sheep and horses can also slow the journey, as one group discovered when animals and local work temporarily blocked the road.

The small-group setup helps. You are not packed into a huge sightseeing coach, and guides can often suggest different walking options or allow a little extra time when conditions permit. The tradeoff is that a small vehicle may feel tight, especially if you end up in the back for several hours.

Hjálparfoss, a waterfall with a useful name

Hjálparfoss, or Help’s Fall, is an early scenic stop. The waterfall drops in two stages into a broad pool, with distinctive basalt formations framing the water. It is not just a quick photograph from the roadside. You have time for a short walk, views, and pictures.

The name comes from the old Sprengisandur route across the Highlands. People crossing from northern to southern Iceland faced a harsh, barren journey and needed pasture for their horses. Reaching the grassy area around Hjálparfoss meant help had finally arrived.

That small story gives the stop some context. You are not only looking at falling water. You are seeing a place that mattered to people crossing Iceland before modern roads, vehicles, and organized tours.

Hjálparfoss is a supporting stop rather than the day’s centerpiece. If your main goal is hiking in Landmannalaugar, you will probably remember the waterfall as a pleasant start and a good chance to stretch your legs. The guide may also use stops like this to explain the geology and history of the route.

Hiking through Laugahraun and toward Brennisteinsalda

At Landmannalaugar, you have more than three hours in the area. The guided walk lasts about two hours and travels through Laugahraun, the obsidian lava field, toward Brennisteinsalda.

Laugahraun formed during an eruption in 1477. Its black volcanic rock has a smooth surface and sharp edges. The appearance is so striking that obsidian is often compared with the fictional Dragon Glass from Game of Thrones. Watch your footing, though. Jagged lava is not the place for thin soles or casual shoes.

The walk is described as suitable for beginners, and one person who considered themselves sedentary found it manageable. That does not mean you should treat it as a city stroll. Rain, wind, uneven ground, and volcanic rock can make the same route feel much harder. You need hiking shoes, outdoor clothing, rain gear, gloves, and a daypack.

The reward is constant change underfoot and overhead. The black lava makes the colored mountains look even stronger. Near Brennisteinsalda, small hot springs and rising steam add a strange, almost theatrical touch. Your guide can explain how silica, quartz, iron, and sulphur affect the rock colors, which makes the scenery more meaningful than a simple photo stop.

The standard guided route is not your only option. You can take another trail, walk independently within the allotted time, stay near the huts, or relax by the pool. Some people have used their time for longer hikes, including the Brennisteinsalda and Bláhnjúkur route, but the exact walking choice depends on conditions and your own ability.

That flexibility is one of the tour’s best features. Strong weather does not automatically ruin the day. In heavy rain and wind, one person skipped the walk and spent time in the hot water instead. You may not get perfect conditions, but you can adjust how much energy you spend outdoors.

The natural hot pool after the hike

The warm pool is a simple pleasure, not a polished spa. You bathe in a natural geothermal pool near the huts, surrounded by the unusual scenery of Landmannalaugar. After two hours over lava and uneven ground, the heat can feel like exactly the right ending.

Bring a swimsuit and towel. They are not supplied, and you will not want to discover that fact after the hike. Pack your swimwear somewhere easy to reach rather than burying it at the bottom of your bag.

Time in the pool depends on how the group moves and how much time remains. One person wished for a longer soak after other members of the group went the wrong way, so do not assume you will have unlimited bathing time. The schedule allows a useful pause, but the tour still has another scenic stop and a long return drive.

You can also skip the pool. Landmannalaugar gives you enough free time to choose another walk or rest. That makes the stop work for different kinds of visitors, including people who want the scenery but are not keen on changing into swimwear outdoors.

Sigöldugljúfur, the Valley of Tears

Sigöldugljúfur is the tour’s most distinctive extra stop. The canyon has earned the nickname Valley of Tears because of the many small waterfalls and streams flowing through it.

The scene is delicate rather than grand. You see clear water, little ponds, spring-fed channels, colorful vegetation, and cliffs with unusual shapes. The water can look intensely blue against the surrounding volcanic ground, and the many separate cascades make the canyon feel almost unreal.

This is a particularly good place for photography because the view has several layers: water in the foreground, low falls and plant life in the middle, and cliffs beyond. Your guide can help with photos throughout the day, which is useful when wind, light, or group timing makes composition tricky.

The canyon also helps balance the Landmannalaugar stop. Landmannalaugar is about broad volcanic forms, high mountains, and walking. Sigöldugljúfur is smaller, wetter, and more detailed. It is a photostop, not another major hike, but it can become one of the day’s strongest memories.

Several people have called the Valley of Tears their favorite part of the trip. It is also less predictable than a famous viewpoint. Water levels, weather, and light can alter its appearance, so the view you get may not match every photograph you have seen online.

Guides, commentary, and the small-group feel

A good guide matters on this trip because the drive is long and the geology is unusual. Eddi has been praised for clear explanations, jokes, and stories about Iceland. Tomasz received strong praise for safe driving and for giving people freedom to choose their walk. Sarah, Eddie, Bessi, Ignacio, Einar, James, and others have also been singled out for kindness, local knowledge, and calm handling of the route.

The best guides do more than point at a mountain. They explain why the rhyolite has so many colors, how the lava formed, and what makes the Highland roads different from ordinary Icelandic routes. They also help you use your time well, find viewpoints, and stay oriented around the walking area.

There is a small but important caveat. Commentary quality is not perfectly consistent. One person found the sound system poor and could not hear half the information, while another felt the guide gave too little explanation on the road and during the walk. A guide may also walk ahead rather than remain closely involved with every person in the group.

That means you should choose this tour mainly for access, scenery, and the flexible day plan. Treat the guide commentary as an important bonus, but do not assume every departure will feel like a private geology lesson.

Food, clothing, and comfort on an 11-hour day

Food and drinks are not included. Buy lunch before departure and carry water and snacks in a daypack. The schedule has scenic stops, but there is no promise of a full meal stop in the Highlands.

Your clothing needs to handle four things at once: wind, rain, cold, and movement. Pack a hat, gloves, rain gear, hiking shoes, warm outdoor clothing, and a towel. Even in summer, the open Highland terrain can feel raw, and the weather may turn during your walk.

The tour is not suitable for children under 10 or for people using wheelchairs. The volcanic ground, natural pool, long ride, and rough roads make this a better fit for people who can walk over uneven surfaces and manage a full day away from Reykjavík.

You should also think carefully about seating. The vehicle has Wi-Fi and USB ports, but several hours on rough roads can still be tiring. If you are prone to motion sickness, sit as far forward as possible and bring whatever remedy normally works for you.

Is $210 a fair price?

For a simple bus ride, $210 would feel expensive. For a full-day trip into Iceland’s Highlands, it is easier to justify.

A self-drive visit requires a suitable four-wheel-drive vehicle, confidence on F-roads, fuel, route planning, and the ability to respond to weather or road problems. This tour places that responsibility with an experienced driver and adds a guided hike, a natural hot pool, Hjálparfoss, and Sigöldugljúfur.

The strongest value comes from the combination of access and time. You are not rushed through Landmannalaugar in 45 minutes. More than three hours lets you hike, take pictures, bathe, or choose a different trail. The Valley of Tears is another reason the price feels competitive, since it adds a special canyon rather than only repeating the usual Iceland stops.

The weak point is comfort. You spend a large part of the day in the vehicle, and the road can be noisy and rough. If you want a relaxed sightseeing outing with little walking and smooth transport, this is not the best use of your money.

Who should book this Highland trip?

I would choose this experience if you want to see Iceland beyond the famous coastal route and do not have access to a four-wheel-drive vehicle. It suits hikers who prefer a manageable guided walk, photographers who want unusual colors and water, and first-time visitors who want a strong introduction to the southern Highlands.

It also works well for solo visitors. The small group makes it easy to meet other people, while the free time at Landmannalaugar lets you decide how social or independent you want the day to be.

I would hesitate if you dislike bumpy roads, need a quiet vehicle, or want a long, serious mountain hike. The walk is beginner-friendly, but this is not a full trekking day. It is a scenic introduction with a comfortable amount of walking and a soothing bath at the end.

Should you book it?

Book it if Landmannalaugar is high on your Iceland wish list and you want the easiest practical way to reach it from Reykjavík. The strongest reasons are the colorful rhyolite, black obsidian, flexible time at the natural pool, and the unusual Valley of Tears.

Skip it if 11 hours of driving sounds worse than the scenery sounds exciting. For most people who accept the rough road and prepare for changing weather, $210 buys a memorable and unusually varied day in a part of Iceland that is difficult to reach independently.

FAQ

How long does the Landmannalaugar tour last?

The experience lasts approximately 11 hours, including the drive from Reykjavík, the stops, the hike, bathing time, and the return journey.

Where does pickup take place?

Pickup and drop-off are available at selected hotels and bus stops in Reykjavík, including City Hall, the Reykjavík Bus Terminal, Hilton Reykjavik Nordica, Storm Hotel, ODDSSON hotel, Höfðatorg, Miðbakki, Snorrabraut, Lækjargata, Safnahúsið, and Vesturbugt.

What time should I be ready for pickup?

You should be ready at 7:30 AM. The minibus may take up to 30 minutes to arrive, depending on the distance from the starting point.

Is the hike difficult?

The guided hike lasts about two hours and is described as beginner-friendly. You still need hiking shoes and must be prepared for uneven volcanic ground, rain, wind, and changing conditions.

Can I skip the guided hike?

Yes. You can explore within the available time, choose another trail, relax near the huts, or spend time at the natural hot pool.

Is swimming included?

You may bathe in the natural hot pool at Landmannalaugar, but you need to bring your own swimsuit and towel.

Are food and drinks included?

No. Food and drinks are not included, so you should buy lunch before the tour and bring snacks and water.

What language is the tour in?

The live tour guide speaks English.

Can I cancel the booking?

You can cancel up to 24 hours in advance for a full refund. The reserve-now, pay-later option is also available.